Just past the breezy beaches lie sunken art, natural wonders, and pirate bars.
The Explorer’s Guide to the British Virgin Islands

Along a sun-drenched strip of beach on Virgin Gorda’s southern tip sits an otherworldly constellation of boulders. They lean against each other; they slant and curve; they create whooshing, cave-like spaces where tides and visitors alike can find new corners to soak up. This collection of rocks is known as “The Baths”, and they are home to a spa-like collection of grottos and tide pools for lounging and exploring. The rocks themselves are composed primarily of granite; they are the result of molten rock cooling and cleaving, creating blocks that were eventually smoothed by weathering into their gentler shapes seen today. Those arriving from land will first stop at Devil’s Bay, a gorgeous white-sand beach that’s ideal for laying about and taking a swim in crystal clear waters before you explore the neighboring rocks. 

Off the coast of Anegada, you may think you see a reef, or a very rough sandbar, rising out of the turquoise-blue waters. But it’s really a centuries-old pile of conch shells. Since the 13th century, fishermen—first indigenous peoples on seasonal hunts, then British settlers—have been piling conch shells here after pulling the tender meat from their pink insides. The idea, according to local fishermen, is that concentrating the shells will make conch fishing easier elsewhere: these critters generally flee when they see empty shells. Tour companies in Anegada offer boat tours for those who want to experience this fascinating burial site up close. 

For the intrepid explorer in search of mythical sea monsters, your best bet might be off the shores of the British Virgin Islands. Here, a World War II Navy fuel barge has been transformed into an on-the-sea art exhibit, topped off with an 80-foot-long kraken sculpture. In 2017, British photographer Owen Buggy came across the ship. He suggested to his boss, Sir Richard Branson, that they turn it into an “art reef”, and soon they painted the ship, designed the kraken, and sunk the whole thing. Today, it makes for one of the most fascinating dive sites in the islands, if not the world.

The British Virgin Islands have a rich history of rum distilling, as evidenced by the drink menus and shelves of bottles you’ll find everywhere you go. In the industry’s heyday of the 18th and early 19th centuries, the BVI was home to 106 distilleries, a quarter of which were on the island of Tortola. Today, only one remains on Tortola: Callwood Rum Distillery. Set into the scenic Cane Garden Bay, this family-run distillery still operates out of the same stone building it did when it opened over a hundred years ago. They harvest cane on their property twice a year, and turn it into a naturally fermented rum without any yeast or additives, which makes for an exceptional sip. The distillery offers tours Monday through Saturday, with plenty of tasting included.

If touring a historic distillery doesn’t sate your desire for vintage island vibes, book a few nights—or a meal—at the Sugar Mill Hotel on Tortola. Built in 1640, this former rum distillery has been converted into an oceanside hotel, with one of the island’s best restaurants to boot. While up-to-date with modern amenities that include a spa, the property has maintained many of its historic touches, like stone pathways and antique distilling equipment. The hotel is also a surfers’ dream, thanks to its location on Apple Bay, which is known for its swells. After a day of surfing (or, sure, lounging in one of the cabanas), tuck into a dinner of conch fritters, lobster curry, and a rum cocktail or two at the Sugar Mill Restaurant.

While you can no longer drink with pirates on the BVI, you can still drink like a pirate. The best place to do this is at Willy T’s, a restaurant and bar on a floating barge with a long history of piracy, shipwrecks, and good times. The barge gets its name from the William Thornton, an old wooden Baltic Trader from 1935 that was turned into a floating bar called Willy T’s, though she sank in 1995 after springing a leak. The second Willy T’s was a hundred-foot steel-hulled ship that became even more popular than the first until the 2017 hurricanes damaged her. Today, you can enjoy a meal and a drink on the third Willy T, or scuba down to the wreck of the second, which still maintains its pirate decor, even underwater. 

Tucked into the shade of a seaside palm grove and dotted with sprays of pink flowers is Foxy’s Bar, a historic spot where you really can find a cheeseburger in paradise. Philicianno “Foxy” Callwood opened the bar in 1968 when he saw that more and more yachts were coming to the islands, and wanted to welcome them in style. He and his family still run the bar, where you can get one of the islands’ best hamburgers, a plate of jerk ribs, a Dark & Stormy, or a home-brewed beer. They often host live bands, which contribute to the always-on island atmosphere.

At the center of the capital city of Road Town, on the island of Tortola, you’ll find an urban oasis full of lush greenery and opportunities for peaceful contemplation. The J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens, named for the man who founded the BVI’s National Parks Trust, offer three acres of native and exotic plant species alike. A long palm-lined pathway at the entrance leads off into various habitats that represent the diversity of the islands, with plants from rainforest, coastal, and dry forest environments. Turtles swim among lily pads in ponds, and the nursery protects local endangered species like the Acacia anegadensis, a yellow-flowered plant found only in the BVI. 

The island of Anegada is home to a series of saltwater ponds, which are full of flora and fauna and a popular stopover point for migrating birds. There’s also Flamingo Pond, named for the iconic roseate birds that roost there. Flamingos have long flocked to this pond—some say by the tens of thousands—but by the 1960s, when development was ramping up on the island, most of the birds had died off. In the 1980s and ‘90s, a group of conservationists successfully reintroduced to the ponds on Anegada as well as on nearby Guana island. Today, visitors can walk the wooden boardwalks along the marshes and look through viewfinders to the thriving community of elegant flamingos roosting in the ponds.

A jacuzzi at your hotel or villa is nice. A natural jacuzzi—surrounded by rocks and with a stunning view of the Caribbean sea—is much, much better. On the northeastern corner of Jost Van Dyke, you’ll find just that. Here, the “Bubbly Pool” is a tranquil pool surrounded by rock cliffs; when waves roll in, they create a spritzing, bubbling effect like that of a jacuzzi. This magical pool can only be accessed by a short hike from Foxy’s Taboo Restaurant. Just beware: particularly rough tides can make the pool less than tranquil; be sure to ask about conditions before you take a dip.