Biatüwi

In downtown Manaus, the city considered the capital of the Brazilian Amazon, just one restaurant exclusively serves indigenous foods made by the rainforest’s native people. At Biatüwi, diners can enjoy fish stews, maniwara ants, and guaraná, which is juice traditionally extracted from the red Amazonian berry by using a local fish’s tongue as a grater.

Run by a husband and wife, it is Brazil’s first official restaurant to serve only indigenous food and be owned by indigenous people—even though the indigenous population is more than 800,000 inhabitants among 300 different ethnicities. The minimalist, modern decor may not at first suggest indigenous roots, but a closer look will reveal arumã (a type of multipurpose straw) in the chandeliers and handicraft clay pieces, such as bowls and plates. 

The menu has only a few options, which reflects the challenges of sourcing all the ingredients from remote indigenous villages, a trip that can often take a week and include multiple passes over rapids. The signature dish is quinhapira, a fish stew made with juice extracted from cassava and served with crunchy and spicy native ants. To pair with such unique food, Biatüwi serves traditional fermented drinks such as aluá, made of smoked pineapple, and caxiri, made of purple yam.