Castle of La Suda – Tortosa, Spain - Atlas Obscura

Castle of La Suda

This former Moorish fortress and Catalonian royal residence now houses a hotel with magnificent views over Tortosa and the River Ebro  

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This magnificent and historic castle stands on the hill in the centre of the old town of Tortosa, overlooking and dominating all of this historic town’s  old buildings. It once had enormous strategic importance, the fortifications and the views they offer of the town and its surrounding area are stunning. This strategic importance lasted even up to the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s when it was badly damaged. The name La Suda  is the Catalan name and it is called La Zuda in Castillian Spanish. The known history of the site goes back over 2000 years. Whilst the Arabs fortified it in the 10th century both  Iberian and Roman remains have been found on the site. Captured from the Moors by Ramon Berenguer IV in 1148 it became a royal residence from the time of King James I  of Catalonia (also called James the Conquerer) , from  1213 onwards. For a time it was controlled by the Templars.

The castle’s outer perimeter has remained the same from its inception, determined by the topography. At first,  square defensive towers appear to have alternated with simple sections of defensive wall but over the centuries the structure was necessarily adapted to meet new military demands as weapons improved. In the 17th and 18th centuries bastions were built at the north-eastern end. A variety of  structures were built inside the fortress including water tanks and the magazine. The large central well, which reaches right down to the level of the Ebro (called the “suda”) intersects with numerous underground galleries with silos and ovens and even an underground mill. Also preserved here is the only open air islamic necropolis in Catalonia.

 There are very useful information boards just outside the main entrance.

Since 1972 it has been a “Parador”, a state-run hotel, which has involved large-scale restoration work to put right the Civil War damage (carried out very sympathetically). Walls, arches, the magazine, a room with trefoil windows, the courtyard and underground galleries survive from the old fortifications but the structure of the  current habitable buildings owe much to the recent restoration.  The castle is an unparalleled vantage point. It  provides a marvellous view over both Tortosa and the lower reaches of the Ebro and offers an excellent opportunity to stay in a real castle.

Know Before You Go

In 2018 the on line booking price for a twin room at the Parador was €85 a night if booked about a month in advance. To visit the castle you do not need to be resident and the bar served some nice sandwiches , if a bit expensive. The walk up to the castle is great but it is possible to drive up and there seems to be nothing stopping one parking at the Parador.

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