Cave Houses of the Barrio Primiero de Mayo – San Miguel de Salinas, Spain - Atlas Obscura

Cave Houses of the Barrio Primiero de Mayo

San Miguel de Salinas, Spain

This town has two oficially recognised troglodyte villages. 

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In 1873 out of 290 buildings in this small village 104 were cave dwellings. Today  a  remarkably high proportion remain in San Miguel de Salinas as there are currently  around 77 of these unusual  structures in the town. Although inhabited  cave dwellings  are  more common  in other parts of Spain in the Valencia  region they are far less so (although  a number of towns have areas where cave dwellings were abandoned in living  memory] 

The prevalence  of cave dwellings  at this place is due to both economic  and geological factors. Economically there was a need for cheap housing as the village started to be established in the late 17th century and, in particular, the lowest paid  group of agricultural  workers saw a possibility of obtaining  accommodation  for free. Secondly the geology of the area around  San Miguel de Salinas (the highest point in the local neighbourhood) consists of alternating layers of hard strata and soft sandstone with the soft state easily  eroded by rain and wind. The small cavities formed provided an initial  shelter that could be partially blocked at the entrance. The soft strata then allowed easy excavation  to increase height and volume  and because the caves were at the top of the hill the upper (hard) layer was shallow  enough to be  penetrated to allow access for chimneys, ventilation  and even natural light. The preponderance of chimneys etc. protruding from the ground in certain parts make a fascinating  sight.

As time progressed terraces were created in front of the caves and in some cases frontages similar to conventional  houses , with doors and windows and even ceramic  tiles. Another important and popular modification was the excavation of rainwater cisterns that were usually lined with concrete. 

The houses are warm in winter and very cool in summer. Most cave houses in the town are in the Barrio Premiero de Mayo but there is another smaller group to the north. In the official protected spaces register these two areas are known as Troglodytic Villages I and II. Some of the cave houses have been brought up by people seeking an unusual home (including a number of artists studio) and have been extensively renovated and improved but some remain in a very rustic state with little more  improvement than a sturdy metal door. At least two of the properties in town have been converted to underground restaurants. The most well known of these is Las Cuevas which is closest to the concentration of dwellings on the Barrio. In response to modern needs some properties also have underground garages.

 

Know Before You Go

Visting one of the cave based restaurants is probably the easiest way to get a look inside one of the caves (although they do come up for sale with Real Estate Agents from time to time.


The Las Cuevas restaurant  does not open on Mondays and only after 5pm on other days. It seems that booking is advisable.


If approaching  from Torrevieja on the CV 95 take Calle Torreaveja from the roundabout with two wooden  owl sculptures.  Drive straight  up the hill to Las Cuevas. Normally  it is possible  to drive over the brow of the hill but in early  June 2024 the road was closed just after the entrance to the restaurant  car park.