Cobblestone Footpath
A segregated walkway that kept the riffraff in the gutter.
For a majority of visitors that seek out the quaint sea-side village of Culross, (pronounced Ku-ross) they are here to soak up the picturesque atmosphere created by the television program “Outlander”. While they enjoying the living scenery created by the main characters of ‘Jamie’ and ‘Claire’, they might be missing some indiscernible details that mainly go unnoticed. For instance, the pattern of the cobbled road of Kirk Street that runs from the Mercat Cross up to the Abbey.
Culross was a town founded in the 6th century, and due to the ingenuity of one of the town’s most prosperous citizens, it grew to a sizeable port that rivaled Glasgow by the 1600’s. Sir George Bruce of Carnock (1568- 1625) established a coal mine, the first in the world that was located underwater. This, along with the production of salt from the Firth of Forth Estuary, would see the town explode in both population and prestige.
Unfortunately, with the vast expansion of this tiny fishing village, a disparity would arise between the mercantile and working classes. A prime example of this divide would be in the streets themselves. As there was no public sanitation system in place at the time, sewage, waste, and everything in-between would be chucked out into the road, where it would eventually make its way downhill to the sea.
As one might imagine, the gentry were not about to soil their good threads and fine footwear. So, a path was created of larger stones that were slightly raised up and ran down the middle of the walkway. This allowed the privileged classes to avoid a majority of the filth, while those less fortunate had to wade through the muck. It was a crime for the unworthy to use this elevated path, punishable by a fine or being tied to the pillory outside the Tolbooth. This was a building located near the water’s edge, that acted as a courtroom, prison, and the town’s custom’s house.
Repeat offenders would have their ears nailed to the wooden post. This is were the term “earmarked” is derived from. The Tolbooth was also a building notoriously used for the imprisonment and torture of supposed witches. A phenomenon that was rampant in Scotland during the 16th and 17th centuries. The building is reportedly haunted by the souls that met unfortunate fates within. The lower part of the structure is where you purchase tickets to visit the Palace or arrange a tour of the town.
This village has other delightful features that hide in plain sight. The pantile rooftops are a result of export ships needing ballast from their journey’s abroad, giving the skyline a continental atmosphere. One may notice miniature windows towards the top of the buildings. These would have been homes with thatched roofs, and the small openings would have allowed Barn Owls to feast on the vermin within. Several doorways have ancient door knockers, a metal ring on a handle, that would be raised up and down or spun around to announce a visitor.
Disaster struck the town during a terrible storm in 1625, when the mine shafts were flooded. The village was not able to recover, it quickly lost its prestige and importance. Over the following centuries it would fall further into a state of disrepair. Fortunately, The National Trust of Scotland purchased several buildings in the town and brought them back to their former glory. Now the town of Culross is known as the best preserved 17th century town in Scotland, and is sought out by film crews throughout the world.
Know Before You Go
The Palace is closed from the 1st of November to March 31st. Check website for pricing and times. Highly recommend booking a tour of the town for an hour long walk and history lesson.
The Abbey, located about a 10 minute walk up to the top of the hill, is also worth a visit. The building was closed because of the Coronavirus, but there are still some sights to see. Including a burial ground and ancient buildings.
There is a pedestrian walkway along the Firth of Forth estuary that is also enjoyable on a dry day. It is here that you can still see the remnants of Sir Bruce's underwater mines.
When walking the small cobbled streets, be mindful that people still live here and there will be moving vehicles.
Culross is located 10 minutes west of Dunfermline, the nearest train station. One can catch a bus here, which will take under 30 minutes.
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