Congregation Rodeph Shalom
The oldest Ashkenazi Jewish congregation in the Western Hemisphere is housed in an ornate and unique Moorish Revival masterpiece.
Congregation Rodeph Shalom is the oldest Ashkenazi (Northern/Eastern European Jews] congregation in the Western Hemisphere, founded in 1795 as a small prayer group. The first chartered synagogue in the state, it was originally called the “Hebrew German Society (Rodeph Shalom)” and all of its records were in Yiddish. Revolutionary amongst synagogues globally, the group did not exclude membership based on financial ability or status, gave significant welfare to poor and sick members, provided care to sick members (two rotating members of the congregation spent the night with the sick congregant), and most revolutionary of all, interfaith families were not excluded. The majority of the congregants were foreign-born and not wealthy or established like most of the other Jews in Philadelphia at that time, so the congregation appointed a layman leader as the head of the congregation and functioned as an immigrant synagogue. A building was first purchased in 1847, a former church, which promptly became Juliana Street Synagogue. Before this purchase, however, the synagogue met mostly in homes, including a neighboring building to the Betsy Ross house, an alley behind Christ Church, a house shared with a Presbyterian congregation, and in various taverns for business. In 1866, following the recommendation of a notable community member, Rebecca Gratz (a sometimes member [split with Mikveh Israel], best known as the model for Rebecca in Ivanhoe), the renown architect Frank Furness designed its first purpose-built home at the corner of Broad and Mt. Vernon streets. In the same year, the famous Talmudist Rabbi Marcus Jastrow became the leader of the congregation. In that position, he became nationally known for his publications and leadership. However, he was replaced due to his conservative stance in opposition to the Reform Movement in 1892, and the synagogue became reform. In 1925, the new rabbi, Louis Wolsey, campaigned to construct a new home for the congregation, which came to fruition in 1927, when the current Byzantine/Moorish Revival building was constructed. Wolsey strengthened the synagogue’s social-justice mission, establishing programs for local children (regardless of religion or socio-economic background), a clinic to teach mothers medical care, and worked to change the outdated criminal justice system in Philadelphia, as well as establish a Rabbinical opposition to Zionism, a position continued from his predecessor and other contemporary rabbis. His successors continued the social justice platform while welcoming the state of Israel and interfaith activities. In 2006, the synagogue became home to Philadelphia’s longstanding LGBTQ+ congregation, Beth Ahavah, which merged with the synagogue in 2015.
Currently, the synagogue is very active in social justice affairs and Jewish life. The synagogue expanded in 2014 to accommodate its growing congregation, being one of the largest in the city of Philadelphia and the only Reform synagogue in Philadelphia. Notable recent guests have included U.S. President Barack Obama, Pennsylvania Gov. Tom Wolf, activist Anat Hoffman, and chef Michael Solomonoff.
The building, designed by Simon and Simon Architects in an innovative Byzantine/Moorish/Art Deco style, contains the work of D’Ascenzo Studios, one of the most notable interior design firms of the early 20th century. The sanctuary (main prayer hall) is covered in entirety with paintings, mosaics, glass, carvings, and tiling, making it “the most complete surviving interior”, according to the shul. The walls are covered in a maze of stenciling, in green and pink gilded arabesques, with Hebrew words emblazoned on the four corners of the dome. The dome, which continues the intense arabesques, is topped by a giant stained-glass rose window, which illuminates the sanctuary far below it, featuring several stars and culminating an ochre and crimson Star of David. The massive Torah ark is made of grey Italian marble, with bronze and enamel doors weighing 1000 lbs each, inside of which are contained six Torah scrolls and their traditional ornaments, including silver crowns and pointers, as well as a blue and gold fabric wall. The most notable (and smallest) Torah was rescued from the Holocaust from Brno, Czechia. On the bimah (the raised area before the congregation) is a massive carved pulpit with marble steps, flowers, wood carvings, and red and gold carpeting. Suspended from the ceiling is a censer-like eternal light. In the back of the bimah, a recessed space contains carved wood and leather chairs for the rabbis and the painted motif of blessing. In a grand arch over the bimah is a painted circle of the Twelve Tribes and their attributes, and behind that, in the choir loft, are hangings and a massive bronze organ screen of the days of creation and illuminated interlocking forms. The pews are carved wood and leather and the sloped floor is covered in a giant red and gold Persian carpet. Over the sanctuary, the barrel-vaulted balcony contains extra seating for holidays and contains a commanding view of the sanctuary and specifically, the sixteen radiant stained glass windows that filter in natural light into the somewhat solemn sanctuary (the effect is best when one is alone in the room). However, the massive sanctuary can fit over 1,640 people for worship.
Besides the sanctuary, the building also contains a richly-carved chapel, the Obermeyer Collection of Jewish Ritual Art (contained in the similarly stenciled lobby, with a geometric marble floor and carved doors that lead out to the tiled entrance), a day school and Sunday school, offices, community spaces, and the Philadelphia Museum of Jewish Art, containing works by William Anastasi, Boaz Vaadia, Isaiah Zagar, and Roman Vishniac. Due to its historical and architectural significance, the building has been placed on the Pennsylvania and National Register of Historic Places.
Know Before You Go
The building is in active use as a house of worship, so visits are not readily available. However, regular services are open to the public, but Holy Day services are closed to members. Tours are available upon request to synagogue.
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