Cordes Sur Ciel

Cordes sur Ciel (literally translated as Cordes in the sky) only adopted it’s mystical name in 1993, reflecting the towns’ appearance in the Spring and Autumn months when it appears to be floating above the clouds. This bastide is a surprising yet beautiful historical gem in one of Southern France’s lesser visited regions – Tarn.

 

Formerly a fortress, Cordes is said to be the first bastide ever built back in 1222. Legend has it that the town was originally going to be built on a hill called the Puech de Gabel, but when the builders returned each morning, the town had been mysteriously knocked down in the night. This continued every day for 30 days, until it angered one of the builders so much that he threw is trowel in the air, only for it to disappear. When a shepherd, who was tending his flock, found the trowel the next day, this was taken as a sign that the town should be built on the neighbouring Puech de Mordagne instead.

 

The construction of the town was completed in seven years, and rather than being a fully walled citadel, to begin with Cordes only needed two walls, thanks to steep limestone cliffs on two sides of the town which provided a natural defence.

 

The first settlers in the town were Cathars, a religious sect that thrived between the 12th – 14th century, until they were denounced by the Catholic Church. By the 14th century, the population of the town had grown to around 5,000 people, meaning that three more walls had to be constructed on top of the initial two. The fast growing population and it’s unusal location meant that Cordes had to expand concentrically down the Puech de Mordagne, rather than outwards like most modern settlements. The inhabitants made their homes from the local sandstone, and the colourful, Gothic style houses can still been seen today on the highest levels of the town.

 

The town suffered several setbacks in the 14th and 15th century. The walls could not protect the bastide from the Black Death, which 25% of the population succumbed to. Like most of France, Cordes was weakened by the 100 Year War (1337 – 1453), with English forces advancing on the town from the surrounding hills.

 

However, resurgence came in the 16th century in the form of the pastel industry. Cordes was one of the centres of pastel production thanks to the woad plant, from which indigo dye is made. Pastel became a mainstay of Cordes economy, meaning that the town continued to expand further down the Puech de Mordagne. Although the pastel industry declined due to the wars which ravaged Europe, it served Cordes well until the introduction of synthetic indigo.

 

This resurgence was short lived however, as misfortune befell the town following the decline of pastel. Firstly, it was attacked and burned in the Huguenots in the religious wars of the 16th century. Regular outbreaks of plague and famine ravaged the town, and the construction of the Canal du Midi in 1681 removed Cordes from the main trade route. All of these factors meant that the population of the town dwindled to 2,500 by the French Revolution in 1789.

 

After the introduction of mechanical embroidery to the town, Cordes fortunes changed for the positive in 1870, and have remained so ever since. During the Great War, the women of the town embroidered silk postcards which were sold to Allied soldiers and then sent home to their families, partners and friends all around the world. The embroidery ceased in the mid 20th century, with the last design being the famous Lacoste crocodile.

 

Over the last century, Cordes became a haven for artists, after the Cordes academy was founded in the 1940s, celebrating sculptors, painters, poets and writers. Every July, Cordes hosts festivals for music and poetry. Nowadays, the main tourist attractions are the Museum of the Art of Sugar and Chocolate, where there are over 20 sculptures made of sweet treats; and the Jardin du Paradis, a contemporary garden opened in 1998. Cordes also boasts several independent boutiques, fine restaurants, and artisanal craft shops, giving the town a relaxed and charming atmosphere. Coupled with the unique architecture and the spectacular views across the Tarn, it’s not hard to see how Cordes beat competition from 21 other villages to be named ‘France’s Best Loved Village,’ in 2014.