Martyr's Cross
A metallic emblem that was most likely the last thing a condemned person saw while on the gallows,
Old St. Paul’s Scottish Episcopal Church stands a stone’s throw away from the western exit of Edinburgh’s Waverley train station. Though this structural configuration dates to the late 19th century, the congregation has origins dating back to the late 1600’s, when they split, over religious differences, from St. Giles Cathedral. Contained within the body of the kirk are many religious objects that illustrate the strong bond the church had with the Jacobites and their cause. However, there is one item, with a rather macabre history, that is hidden in plain site.
The Martyr’s Cross, or Suffer’s Cross, is a metallic emblem that dates from the 15th or 16th century. It originally was attached to The Knights Templar House, No. 75 in the Grassmarket. This location would have been directly opposite the gallows, one of three sites in the city used for public executions. Because of its position, it is likely that this would have been the last thing a condemned person would have seen before being put to death.
The Martyr’s Cross is now located within Old St. Paul’s, in an area that is referred to as the Memorial Chapel. It is sequestered in a small room off to the left of the altar, of the main body of the church. It is originally thought to have been a crucifix, with the body of Christ adhered to it. This was most likely removed for reasons of idolatry during the Reformation. A small plaque beside it reads:
“This cross, (originally a crucifix) was at one time imposed upon the wall of the house which stood immediately opposite the site of the gallows in the Grassmarket used for public executions. It was the last object to be seen by sufferers before death. Among others who were executed at that spot were many who suffered for conscious sake. Not improbably some members of this congregation. It is not untrue therefore to describe it as a martyr’s cross and not unfitting that it should find place here. When the house was demolished, the cross was given to Robert Farquhar Shaw Stewart whose family presented it to Old Saint Paul’s.”
Know Before You Go
Free to enter. Open daily Monday to Friday from 8 AM to 5:30. Closed on Saturdays. Sunday 9:30 AM to 7:30. There are services held on Sundays that might impede viewing. There are 3 flights of stairs to enter the church, but their is a mobility chair.
The Memorial Chapel houses a large square painting by Scottish artist Alison Watt, entitled "Still". Which was named as one of the '101 objects in Edinburgh', a vast collection of items that tell the 1,000 year old and varied history of Scotland's capitol city.
The Martyr's Cross is attached to a pillar in the same room as the painting. During religious holidays, such as; Lent and Advent, the cross may be covered with a piece of cloth.
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