Padley Chapel – Grindleford, England - Atlas Obscura

Padley Chapel

Grindleford, England

A reminder of religious intolerance and state sponsored corruption in 16th century Britain 

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Padley chapel, near Grindleford, Derbyshire, is all that  remains of Padley Hall. It was the gatehouse, which once also contained the private chapel of the Fitzherbert family. What is left of the hall is a stark  reminder of a less tolerant period of Britain’s history which was also highly corrupt.

It was built in the 14th and 15th centuries and became the property of  Sir Thomas Fitzherbert in the mid 16th century. The  Fitzherberts, who also had lands in Staffordshire,  were, recusants, devout Roman Catholics at a time of intense religious persecution. Their beliefs were not unknown to the authorities and raid looking for the presence of Catholic priests at the hall was carried out by Queen Elizabeth’s agent Richard Topcliffe.  Topcliffe, was actually engaged in a long-running attempt to destroy the Fitzherberts.  He  persuaded Sir Thomas Fitzherbert’s heir (also Thomas) to assist him. He also entered into a contract whereby Thomas the younger would pay him ₤3,000 for bringing about the death of his uncle and other relatives so that he could inherit.

Two Roman Catholics priests,  Robert Ludlam and Nicholas Garlick, who would become known as the Padley Martyrs, were discovered and arrested  at the hall in 1588. Under the law, after 1585, merely being a priest in England was treason. They were found guilty of high treason and very quickly suffered the traitor’s punishment of being hanged, drawn and quartered. Richard Topcliffe was a well known torturer and  had a reputation for attending the executions of so called traitors he had arrested to ensure that the hanged prisoners were cut down soon enough to be kept alive until their disembowelment. The execution was carried out in Derby and their dismembered remains were displayed on poles mounted on St. Mary’s Bridge in the town. Sir Thomas Fitzherbert was also arrested and sent to the Tower of London. He remained there until his death 3 years later.

When the younger Thomas Fitzherbert refused to pay up Topcliffe actually sued him for the money. This was seen as blatent corruption and  a scandal and the Privy Council intervened. When they had him arrested the Queen released him. He did not get the money, but he had already succeeded in tricking Thomas into deeding the estate at  Padley, to him. Later, under King James I , the Fitzherberts recovered the property.

Although the hall eventually fell into ruin its domestic chapel, originally the upper floor of the gatehouse, survived although the altar was destroyed. For many years the gatehouse served as a farm building.

The building was restored by C. M. E. Hadfield in a process which included an extensive archaeological survey and the chapel was re-consecrated in 1933. The interior has a very attractive  hammerbeam roof. An altar was recreated in the chapel  reusing the altar stone or “Mensa”  unearthed during archaeological excavations. Stained glass ( installed as part of the 20th century reconstruction) includes windows showing the Virgin presenting the Padley Martyrs to a Crucified Christ, above the altar. Behind the chapel building is an interesting assemblage of ruins, the remains of the rest of the building, but little is left standing as much of the stonework has been robbed away.

Every July a large Catholic pilgrimage takes place at the chapel.

Know Before You Go

The chapel is open to the public every Sunday and Wednesday between 2 and 4pm. There is no admission charge. The way to get there is to travel by car or train to Grindleford station on the Sheffield to Manchester line (public parking available) then follow the road/track which crosses the railway bridge and turns left towards the chapel, in the direction of Hathersage which is within easy walking distance.
Grindleford railway station is now an unmanned halt but the station buildings have been converted into a café which is popular with hikers and climbers. Whilst the decor is "rustic" the food is good and the tea comes in 1 pint mugs. At weekends both parking lot and café become very busy.

As you cross the railway bridge if you look to the right there is Totley Tunnel, when it was built it was the longest in Britain.