The pair of earthenware comal griddles fueled by smoldering oak coals at Tacos del Carmen are beautiful things, weathered by use and white from curing with lime powder. They impart a unique earthy smokiness to this street stand’s quesadillas, empanadas, and tacos. That primeval flavor of clay might be one reason why even in this city of endless street stands this one is always surrounded by crowds—including some of Oaxaca’s top chefs waiting their turn.

Open from 7 a.m. until early afternoon, this legendary taco stop is run like a tight ship by Margarita Martinez, whose mother started the business in 1974 and whose recipes Margarita still uses. Assisting her is a small brigade of white-aproned women, most of them family members. For starters, have an empanada de amarillo, which entails a giant tortilla folded calzone-style over chicken, minty hoja santa (pepperleaf), and dabs of yellow mole powered with costeño and chilhuacle chiles.

The tacos here are also particular. The same giant tortillas, made that morning from freshly ground nixtamalized masa, are rolled around some half dozen different fillings and allowed to sit on comal for that slightly charred finish.

The most satisfying filling? A crumbly chorizo that’s warmed over coals under the comal. Another must? A taco de chile relleno folded around pork-filled chiles de agua along with melty quesillo cheese.