Lisbon is one of the world's greatest food cities, and you'll experience the very best of it. Visit markets and farms, meet fishermen and bakers, learn to make Portuguese specialties, and eat and drink glorious delicacies, all while getting the chance to explore one of Europe's most beautiful cities.
Journey beyond the city’s tiled buildings and narrow streets to discover the long legacy and vibrant present of culinary inventiveness in Lisbon.
We’ll learn about the voyages and trade routes that stocked the city’s pantry with spices, and sample the contemporary fare that inflects traditional dishes with Goan influences. We’ll enjoy iconic egg-custard pastries, baked in the shadow of historic convents, and venture far past the city center to get an insider perspective on fresh-from-the-water seafood at the city’s bustling ports. At far-flung farms and vineyards, we’ll get our fill of the region’s famous salt-cured ham and local wines. This six-day journey will be a feast for your eyes and your stomach.
- Engage your senses and your hands: On visits to farms and the city’s distinctive restaurants, you’ll get an insider’s view of Lisbon's distinctive food scene. You’ll also join in yourself, getting the chance to prepare the region’s beloved buttery, egg-custard tarts.
- Shop magnificent markets: You'll eat your way across Lisbon's traditional market, meeting butchers, bakers, and greengrocers, and sampling the city's delicacies.
- See seafood as locals do: Down at the historic docks, mingle with fishermen and survey the fresh catch before feasting on cod cakes and goose barnacles.
- Experience one of the world's greatest food cities like a local: You'll get a chance to eat and drink the very best Lisbon has to offer.
YOUR LISBON CULINARY GUIDE
Célia Pedroso, Bureau Chief
Célia, Culinary Backstreets' Lisbon bureau chief, is a freelance journalist, writing mostly about travel and food. She is the co-author of the book Eat Portugal, winner of a Gourmand World Cookbook Award. Her work can also be seen in The Guardian and Eater, and she has appeared on television productions including the Netflix series “Somebody Feed Phil."Célia wrote the Portuguese entries for the book 1001 Restaurants you Must Experience Before you Die, and has been leading culinary tours since 2014. She keeps searching for the best pastéis de nata so you don't have to.
Please email us at trips@or call us at (646) 961-4857 with any questions about the itinerary, logistics, and payment.
Welcome to Lisbon!
- As travelers arrive, we’ll gather at our hotel for a welcome drink and begin getting to know our guides.
- Afterward, we’ll take to the water: A chartered cruise will ferry us to a delicious al fresco dinner with a panoramic view of the city.
A Culinary Crossroads, Explored
- We’ll start the day by awakening our senses at a classic pastry shop beside the 18th-century Estrela Basilica. As we munch, we’ll be transported back in time, to the era when Lisbon was at the epicenter of the spice trade.
- From there, we’ll journey off the beaten path—and to the present day—in the Campo de Ourique neighborhood, a “city within a city.” Here, we’ll learn about some of Lisbon's hidden history, such as plots to subvert the Salazar dictatorship that dominated the country in the 20th century.
- On our way to one of Lisbon’s finest traditional markets, we’ll also enjoy a belly-warming shot of ginjinha, a local liqueur made from alcohol-soaked sour cherries. Once we arrive, we’ll visit fishmongers, butchers, greengrocers, and bakers. We’ll descend into a bookseller’s secret basement, which stocked contraband literature during the dictatorship.
- At lunch time, we’ll nibble our way around the neighborhood. First, we’ll try a few traditional seasonal specialties, and then we’ll move along to a hidden gem that has been upholding a family’s culinary traditions for generations. At a private association with a subversive past, we’ll dig into vindalho—a curry dish with ancestral roots in both Goa and Portugal.
- We're working to arrange a special visit to the underground waterway tunnels and cisterns, ending the day in an unusual wine bar that resides in the mouth of the tunnel. After a tasting session, take the rest of the evening to explore on your own or relax at the hotel.
A Sense of the Sea
- Today, we’ll dive into Lisbon’s port district—where varinas, itinerant fishmongers, once peddled their catch from baskets hoisted on their heads—and learn about the deep affinity the city has for the sea.
- We’ll begin with a bite at a neighborhood bakery, followed by a bica, a Portuguese-style espresso, at a wood-fired roastery still preparing coffee the old-fashioned way.
- Next, we’ll wind through the neighborhood and its narrow alleys, catching the smell of fish roasting on charcoal grills. Down at the port, we’ll stop into port workers’ favorite grill joint, where—if we’re lucky—we’ll try in-season sardines.
- After our lunch at the docks, we’ll board the van and drive about 45 minutes along the coast to the Colares region near Sintra, home to Europe’s westernmost wine region. We’ll visit Viuva Gomes, a wonderful family-run winery, then, keeping with the theme of the sea, we will finish up with an early dinner at a classic waterfront seafood restaurant with views over the Atlantic.
- If you still have energy upon returning to Lisbon, you can head out to explore the city after dark.
Sweet & Sacred Delights
- After breakfast at the hotel, we’ll travel to the the lavishly tiled Convento das Trinas do Mocambo, a former convent now home to the navy’s Hydrographic Institute. On a private tour, we’ll learn about the building’s intricate decoration and Portugal’s Moorish heritage.
- From there, we’ll journey to Lisbon’s last active convent. Hiding behind the whitewashed walls in the city center, it withstood the devastating 1755 earthquake and remains awash in original details. After lunch in a neighborhood eatery, we'll tour the convent’s art collection and try our hands at making pastel de nata, the locally beloved egg-yolk tart.
- After sampling our custard delicacies, you’ll have a free afternoon to explore the city before regrouping at the hotel to head to a multi-course Goan feast at Jesus é Goês, where the boisterous chef, Jesus, will describe the relationship between Portuguese and Goan cuisine.
The Rural Connection
- After a quick breakfast at the hotel, we’ll get an early start and drive out Alentejo region, southeast of the city. At a traditional farm, we’ll learn to bake the region’s signature loaves of bread, and then we’ll head out to the fields to learn about the local olives, cork production, and Iberia’s famous black-hoofed pigs.
- We’ll lunch on cozido à portuguesa, a hearty meat stew with delicious regional variations that’s sometimes called the “national dish of Portugal.”
- After our meal, we’ll make our way to a small producer of wine and cheese. We’ll enjoy a tour and tasting, accompanied by region’s famous presunto, cured Iberian ham.
- In the evening, we’ll return to Lisbon for a much-needed good night’s sleep.
Hidden Neighborhood Heritage
- This morning, you’ll be free to zip or wander around the city on your own.
- After lunch, we’ll meet up at the hotel, where a historic tram will be waiting to whisk us off. We’ll ride through the city’s winding streets, stopping into a number local cultural institutions to hear their stories. Over a quick drink, we’ll meet the people keeping these institutions vibrant.
- We’ll then tuck into a delicious farewell meal at a contemporary Portuguese restaurant, celebrating our final night in Portugal over local wines and fresh takes on classic fare.
YOUR LISBON TRIP INCLUDES
- All lodging in a modern, well-equipped boutique hotel throughout the trip. (Single supplement for a private room is available for $525. Otherwise we'll work to place singles of the same sex together.)
- All meals and transportation during the trip, including in a private coach for visits outside the center city. Travel within the city will be by foot and public transportation.
- An experienced, local English-speaking guides to accompany you throughout the trip.
- Admission to all proposed activities, locations, and events.
- A great group of fellow Atlas Obscura fans, excited to explore all that Lisbon has to offer!
NOTE ON FLIGHTS
For flights in and out of Lisbon International Airport (LIS), we suggest you arrive anytime before 3 p.m. on October 14 and depart anytime on the morning of October 20. We are happy to book you extra nights at the group's hotel and provide suggestions for things to do and see in the city on your own.
NOTE ON ITINERARY
Itineraries and pricing are subject to change. This particular tour has been designed with specific activities and events in mind, whose schedules and availabilities may change in coming months. If any activity or attraction that is advertised is missed or not available, then we will always replace it with another activity or location of significant interest and value.
NOTE ON PHYSICAL ACTIVITY
Travelers should be reasonably fit and feel comfortable walking 3 to 5 miles each day and remaining on their feet for long periods of time. Keep in mind that Lisbon is a bustling and crowded place!
You will be charged a non-refundable $500 deposit to hold your space. The final payment of $2,875 will be due by July 14, 2019. All reservations will be final after this date and subject to our cancellation policy. By submitting your deposit, you agree to the Terms & Conditions. For travelers wishing to have single accommodations during the trip, an additional $525 will be included in the final payment.
TRAVELERS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
- Transportation and flights to and from Lisbon.
- Airport transfers.
- Travel insurance (optional).
- Baggage charges.
- Additional meals and drinks outside of Atlas Obscura offerings.
- If applicable, applying for a Portuguese visa (not required for U.S. citizens).