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Traveling with Atlas Obscura amid COVID-19 How We’re Adapting Our Trips Destination Requirements (via Embassy Pages)Descend into the storied labyrinth of the Slovenian karst, where some of the world’s most famous caves snake below the ground. Equipped with headlamps and flashlights, we’ll explore the geological wonders, mysterious history, and tender ecosystems that characterize this stunning, subterranean world. We’ll search for the quick-swimming “human fish,” glimpse fossils of cave bears, and investigate the remains of an underground espionage operation. Of course, we’ll emerge often enough to visit local vineyards, sample karst prosciutto, tour a medieval castle or two, and skirt around the stunning, glassy waters of Bled Lake, cradled between the Alps. We’ll even partake in a local tradition—a nighttime dormouse hunt, where we’ll journey through the ruins of Šteberk castle in search of one of the most historically important mammals in this region. Along the way, we’ll meet historians, cave experts, and locals who will help us get to know the history, cuisine, and traditions that make this tiny region so special at altitudes high and low.
Arrive in Ljubljana, the leafy capital of Slovenia home to a winding river, a charming blend of historic and modern architecture, and, perched above it all, a sprawling Renaissance castle. After settling in at our hotel, we’ll meet up for an introductory tour, making our way through the old town, across the river, and into the bustling market. We’ll end at the bottom of a funicular railway, where we’ll hop into the train for a short ride up to the castle, taking in sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and Ljubljana’s eclectic cityscape as we go. Our ride will bring us to the lower chambers of the castle, which give way to a white-walled courtyard frequented by local cafe-goers and wedding parties alike. At the bottom of the castle, we’ll find a cozy restaurant tucked away in the cellar offering a medley of traditional dishes from across Slovenia. Slurp cabbage soup from the southern coast; indulge in rich, cake-filled apples with poppy seeds and cottage cheese from the northeastern plains; and tuck into fried anchovies, calamari, and Idrija’s iconic, hat-shaped dumplings. We’ll learn about these various cuisines firsthand, and raise a glass to the adventures ahead of—and below—us!
Urban Hotel, Ljubljana
Welcome Dinner
We'll set out for the mining town of Idrija, about an hour west of Ljubljana, winding around steep hills and along canyons. Toward the end of the drive, thick forests give way to the unassuming small town. But there’s more than meets the eye in Idrija; home to mine-shafts, a smelting plant, world-renowned bobbin lace, mouthwatering cuisine, and the storied, mischievous elf, Perkmandelc, Idrija is a small but mighty cultural hub. Upon arrival, we’ll take a guided tour of the long-abandoned tunnels that snake through Anthony’s Road Mine, the second-largest mercury mine in the world. We’ll partake in a hands-on cooking class, learning to craft the region’s famed cheese dumplings said to resemble Napoleon’s hat. Afterward, we’ll have the chance to sample geruš and zelševka, two local spirits beloved by miners, and tuck into a special bread stuffed with pork cracklings. In the afternoon, we’ll stroll along the stream that once powered the production of ore in the mine. The rest of the afternoon and evening will be yours to explore this charming town at your own pace.
Fortuna farmstay or similar, Idrija
Breakfast, Lunch, Tasting
This morning, it’s off to Križna Cave—an exquisite example of a karst cavern, complete with underground lakes, speleothems, and ancient fossils. Be prepared to wander, guided, through the caverns in rubber boots and by boat, often in total darkness (you'll have a headlamp and flashlight), passing through massive cave halls, stalactite-lined ceilings, and cave lakes. After a morning spent underground, we’ll emerge and head to the small town of Cerknica for lunch at a local restaurant. We’ll also pay a visit to the Heritage House, where we’ll learn about a nearby intermittent karst lake, fir tree essential oil, and the crafting of drevak—a traditional wooden boat carved from fir trees. Tonight we’ll dine at Tekavča ograda farm, home to the knights of Šteberk centuries ago. Each surrounding house once served a very specific purpose—from a weavers’ house to a house specializing in horse transportation. Most notably, it’s around here that you’ll find the annual tradition of dormouse hunting in full swing—and tonight, we’ll be joining in. We’ll gather our torches and set out into the nearby forest, making our way to the ruins of the Šteberk castle in search of the tiny polh. While hunting for the dormouse is no longer a necessity here, dormouse fat continues to have a reputation for healing wounds, and fur hats have kept generations protected from the frigid winter air. Those who’d prefer to hang back can relax or explore the farm, checking out its traditional Slovenian hayrack, or kozolec—an increasingly rare agricultural structure.
Farmstay, Tekavča Ograda
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Today we’ll venture into Postojna, perhaps the country’s most widely renowned cave. To enter, we’ll take a subterranean train ride, rumbling past jagged stalagmites and stalactites. We’ll keep our eyes peeled for the otherworldly amphibian known as the “human fish,” or olm, an aquatic salamander that has evolved specifically to thrive in cavernous conditions. Effectively blind, the olm has developed an incredibly acute sense of smell and hearing. Postojna Cave is not only home to magnificent creatures, but also to great mystery. Just a few years ago, during the renovation of a nearby hotel built in the 1970s, workers uncovered hidden rooms replete with communication equipment used to spy on the hotel’s visitors, likely during the time of communist Yugoslavia. Since then, only more questions have arisen about this clandestine operation. We’ll get to ponder our hypotheses for what went down over local prosciutto and Teran wine at a nearby family-owned winery. Here, we’ll have the chance to check out the classic karst architecture (limestone walls, flat red roofs, and white wells), wander the vineyard, and drop by the village church. Then we’ll return to our cozy homestay, tucked away in the hills of Brkini—the last barrier between central Slovenia and the coast—for a home-cooked meal and a good night’s sleep.
Farmstay, Dujčeva Domačija
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Today we’ll roam the caves of Škocjanske—a system of massive caverns, containing some of the largest in the world, believed to have served as sites of ceremonial sacrifice during the Bronze Age. We’ll wander through the stunning subterranean world, learning about its history and unique ecosystems, where Alpine and Mediterranean plant species exist side by side. We’ll emerge for lunch at a nearby farm, then descend into a smaller cavern, Dimnice Cave. Due to the shape and size of the cave’s shafts, a tower of steam occasionally escapes the cave, earning it the nickname of The Devil’s Smokehouse. We’ll return to Ljubljana later in the afternoon for a free evening of independent exploration.
Urban Hotel, Ljubljana
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
This morning we'll explore the underground tunnels built as World War II shelters for the people of Kranj, a small town outside of Ljubljana, in the event of an attack. Over the years, these tunnels have acquired a natural patina, and dripstone hangs spectacularly from the ceiling. Alongside a local guide, we’ll learn about the history, peculiarities, and current life led inside the tunnel walls. Later in the day, we'll head up into the Alps. If we’re lucky, the peaks will be coated with glittering snow, and the fields below lush with wildflowers. We’ll stop where the mountains open up into the sweeping expanse of Bled Lake, dotted with traditional pletna boats gliding across the glassy water. We’ll spend some time exploring the lake and sampling Bled’s beloved cream cake, kremsnita, before heading to the medieval castle that overlooks the lake. We’ll stop by the castle’s famed restaurant to try traditional Alpine dishes with a modern twist: poached Piran sea bass with strawberries, istrian fusi with truffles, and chocolate with fleur de sel from the Slovenian coast. After a full day, we’ll head back to Ljubljana. Enjoy some time on your own to rest (and digest) before our final farewell feast this evening.
Urban Hotel, Ljubljana
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
The listed price of the trip is per person based on double occupancy.
You’re in good company. Solo travelers typically make up about half of our small groups. With curiosity at the center of our experiences, there’s a natural camaraderie that develops over the course of a trip. We have two options for you:
Shared Room (subject to the latest Covid-19 guidelines): You’ll be matched with another solo traveler of the same gender.
Private Room: Have your own room, subject to availability, for a supplemental cost of $225. After booking your trip, please request a private room when you fill out your traveler information form and we’ll add the option to your booking and final balance.
Travelers should feel comfortable being on their feet for four to five hours over the course of each day, spending time outdoors and on the water, and walking on uneven, wet, or slippery terrain. Since the majority of this trip takes place underground in dark, sometimes narrow environments, travelers should feel comfortable with heights and in enclosed spaces; this trip may not be suitable for those who suffer from vertigo or claustrophobia. Travelers should also be comfortable on and around the water, as parts of this trip will be spent on boats and around underground lakes, streams, siphons and waterfalls. There will also be several stretches of this journey where we’ll be quite far from medical facilities. If you’re at all unsure whether or not this is the right trip for you, we highly encourage you consult with your doctor before making a decision.
Our trip begins with an introductory castle visit and welcome dinner in Ljubljana on Day 1. We recommend you arrive in Ljubljana by 3 p.m. that day so you can settle into your accommodations in time to meet with our guide and group. Our trip concludes on Day 7 in Ljubljana, and we can organize a transfer to the airport at an additional cost.
Weather in the late fall typically includes some mild, sunny days as well as cold rain—and occasionally, light snow. Temperatures typically range from 40 to 70°F. In the springtime, temperatures tend to range from 50 to 60°F, with some cold, rainy days, as well. Cave conditions are typically fairly consistent throughout the year, with temperatures reaching around 50°F.
Most dietary restrictions can be accommodated, though in most cases ingredients can't be substituted or omitted from particular dishes. If you have a severe allergy, please contact us to find out if this is the right trip for you.
Visa requirements for Slovenia vary depending on traveler citizenship. Please check requirements for travel to Slovenia and any countries passed through in transit. A passport is required for international travel. We recommend your passport expire at least six months after your return home.