The Moldovan capital is an underrated gem, from the socialist-modernist state circus to the neoclassical cathedral and beyond. We’ll admire Brutalist housing blocks and visit the striking Victory Monument. We’ll learn about Chișinău’s Jewish heritage as we walk through the city’s former ghettos and visit the overgrown Jewish cemetery on its outskirts. We’ll finish with dinner and an overnight stay in the city.

Today we’ll cross the border into the unrecognized Republic of Transnistria. After the hour-long drive from Chișinău, we’ll get settled into our spacious apartment lodgings, then head out to explore the city of Tiraspol, which serves as the de facto capital of this breakaway state. Expect to see tanks, monuments, and teams of people busy making preparations for tomorrow’s festivities. After some free time to explore in the afternoon, we’ll gather back together for dinner, and prepare ourselves for the big day ahead. 

Prepare yourself for a street party like nothing you’ve ever seen. September 2 is Transnistrian Independence Day. Expect Soviet-style military parades, marching bands, and pompous speeches from a podium decked in flags. The streets fill with crowds of spectators, while bands perform late into the night. Along the riverfront, we’ll find food stalls selling nothing but shashlik—huge grilled kebabs—and plastic cups of vodka. We’ll be going in deep today: mingling with the locals and getting lost in the noise and chaos of the parades. Later, we’ll gather for a big dinner and drinks, and to recap all that we’ve seen.

Today we’ll leave Transnistria behind as we travel onwards into Ukraine, to the historic port city of Odessa in the south (two hours). On a walking tour of the city, we’ll take in highlights such as the legendary Potemkin Stairs to the beautiful Cathedral Square. Later in the afternoon, we’ll check into our Odessa hotel for a taste of Soviet-era luxury and mid-century modernism, before heading out for dinner.

The Odessa Catacombs are the longest network of tunnels in the world, an estimated 1,553 miles in length. This morning, we’ll dive straight into the labyrinth, accompanied by an experienced local guide. Exploring the catacombs is hungry work, so we’ll return topside in time for lunch in the city. In the afternoon you’ll have some time to yourself; Odessa has a lot to offer, from its markets and church squares to famous Soviet-era monuments. We’ll give you a map and some free time to explore the city as you choose, before meeting later for an optional group dinner.

Today we’ll drive north almost 300 miles to Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine. There’s something very exciting to see along the way, so we’ll stop to explore this mystery destination and have lunch halfway before continuing on. We’ll arrive in Kyiv by evening, checking into our accommodation at the delightfully surreal Hotel Salyut, conveniently located just down the road from the deepest metro station in the world. After that it’s time for a welcome dinner in the capital, at a trendy grill and microbrewery nearby.

This morning we’ll visit Mezhyhirya, the private residence of exiled former president Viktor Yanukovych. Marvel at the disgraced leader’s ostentatious display of wealth as you wander through his house and classic car collection. After lunch back in the capital, we’ll stop by the magnificent Pechersk Lavra monastery—one of Ukraine’s most important Orthodox sites—and then explore the system of catacombs beneath the church. We’ll then head over to the nearby Motherland Monument to experience sheer awe before this towering Soviet symbol, before learning about Ukraine’s role in World War II at the Great Patriotic War Museum. Finally, we’ll end the day with a banquet at a rustic home-style restaurant.

Leaving early from our hotel, we’ll travel by private bus to the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone. On our first day in Chernobyl we’ll visit the reactors themselves. We’ll see ground zero of the accident, admire the new containment structure installed in 2016, and explore some of the other facilities around the nuclear power plant. Take lunch in the Chernobyl workers’ canteen, surrounded by scientists and engineers currently stationed at the plant. After a long day of exploring, we’ll eat dinner at a restaurant in Chernobyl town. Our accommodation for the night is at a homestay nearby, in a village close to the Chernobyl checkpoint.

On our last day, we’ll enjoy one final breakfast together in Kyiv. If you’d like to extend your stay, your guides will be very happy to provide you with maps and various suggestions for more places to go. Kyiv is a big, bustling city rich with ancient history, so there’s no end of things to see and do. When you’ve had your fill, you’ll find the local Kyiv Airport is well connected for flights home or onto your next destination. Until next time!